Richard & I are currently in La Paz, Bolivia! Last time I finished up I think we were in Cuzco, Peru. We really enjoyed having some time off in Cuzco, catching up on some sleep, soaking up the atmosphere in a few cafes & of course seeing some of the main sights. Unfortunately, while in Cuzco, one of our team members was hospitalised with Altitude sickness & suspected Salmonella poisoning. After inhaling half an oxygen tank & a number of antibiotics, she decided to continue to travel on with us rather than be left behind.
The most amazing sight was Saqaywaman (pronounced "Sexy Woman" :) & pic on left - the dots are people!), which is believed to be an old Inca fortification of the town in the shape of teeth. The whole city of Cuzco was apparently designed in the shape of a Puma in the Inca times, and these fortifications are the teeth of the puma. The stones are massive (up to 300 tonnes I believe), and are so carefully carved & placed that there is barely a crack between them.
Anyway, after resting up in Cuzco, we travelled onto Puno, which is a largely tourist town situated on the edge of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigatable lake in the world. Puno didn't leave a great first impression, with unfinished buildings, roads and dirt & rubbish everywhere. The main center of Puno however is tourist heaven. Wester
n food in chic restaurants & souvenirs everywhere! We were in Puno for a free day (as we travelled a day earlier than planned due to a national census during which everyone has to stay home & there is no transport, food, shops etc open). Unfortunately that meant that we had a day to do nothing much more than sit back & relax! Also unfortunately our team member who fell ill in Cuzco became worse in Puno (which is at 3,800 m above sea level), and the local doctor diagnosed bronchitus (rather than salmonella) and altitude sickness. She decided to cut the trip short and travel home at that point.
n food in chic restaurants & souvenirs everywhere! We were in Puno for a free day (as we travelled a day earlier than planned due to a national census during which everyone has to stay home & there is no transport, food, shops etc open). Unfortunately that meant that we had a day to do nothing much more than sit back & relax! Also unfortunately our team member who fell ill in Cuzco became worse in Puno (which is at 3,800 m above sea level), and the local doctor diagnosed bronchitus (rather than salmonella) and altitude sickness. She decided to cut the trip short and travel home at that point.The day after we arrived we were picked up at 7:30am by our local guide with a number of local tricycles with seats on the front (being the local transport). The cyclists took us down to the port on Lake Titicaca where we started our trip out onto the lake. Lake Titicaca was massive, to the point where you feel as though you are on the ocean. Our first stop was on the floating islands. They are completely reliant o
n tourism & appear to be very popular. The floating islands are made with reeds which grow abundantly in that area of the lake. The houses, boats & the islands themselves are made with reeds which need to be regularly renewed as they rot over a number of months (2 pics on right of the people and the reed boats). We were given a tour of one of the islands & travelled in a local reed boat across to one of the 
main islands where we had the opportunity to buy some of the many souvenirs there. Lots of fun, but felt a bit as though we were in a museum, with everything carefully arranged and displayed to give tourists a lesson on the local life.
n tourism & appear to be very popular. The floating islands are made with reeds which grow abundantly in that area of the lake. The houses, boats & the islands themselves are made with reeds which need to be regularly renewed as they rot over a number of months (2 pics on right of the people and the reed boats). We were given a tour of one of the islands & travelled in a local reed boat across to one of the 
main islands where we had the opportunity to buy some of the many souvenirs there. Lots of fun, but felt a bit as though we were in a museum, with everything carefully arranged and displayed to give tourists a lesson on the local life. From the floating islands we travelled onto Amantani island where we were split into pairs and allocated to local families with whom we were to spend the night. Richard & I stayed with a young couple (Nancy & Victor) with a 3 year old daughter (Anna) . Victors parents also live with them. Similarly to the floating islands, the main income on Amantani island is tourism. Nancy & Victor told us that they have around 10 couples stay with them
per month. The tourists are rotated around the families to ensure everyone participates and the money goes to the community. We were told to bring around 20 soles worth of groceries as a gift to our family, which included oil, rice, noodles, sugar, and salt. The house we stayed in was very basic, with reed mattresses & the house made out of mud brick.
per month. The tourists are rotated around the families to ensure everyone participates and the money goes to the community. We were told to bring around 20 soles worth of groceries as a gift to our family, which included oil, rice, noodles, sugar, and salt. The house we stayed in was very basic, with reed mattresses & the house made out of mud brick. We were lent local beanies to wear (pic of us in our beanies on left) for the night & our group climbed up to the top of the island where we had a fabulous view of the sunset over Lake Titicaca. Absolutely gorgeous (pic of us watching the sunset on left).
After dinner (delicious soup & then vegetables & rice prepared by Nancy), we were dressed up in the local dress (poncho for Richard & huge skirts, blouse, & headscarf for me, pic of us with Nancy, Victor & Anna on left) and taken to the local disco which is put on for the benefit of tourists every night. Victor & Nancy had us up and dancing the local dance as soon as we arrived which was a fun, if breathless activity (due to the altitude!) . 
All in all, a bizarre experience, if only because it was so put on for tourists. Still it was interesting to see how these people live & learn a bit about them.
The next day we headed onto Taquile Island which is famous for its knitting which is done by the men (Pic on right of 2 of the men knitting). Again, it is a very cute island, but relies on tourism and is therefore very tourist oriented. Young girls constantly harrassed us to buy bracelets
& when taking a photo, would rush to be in the photo so they could ask for money. It's hard to know whether the tourism is good, as it helps to maintain their customs & way of living & gives a better lifestyle, or if its bad as the local customs etc are so obviously maintained just for the tourist dollar.
& when taking a photo, would rush to be in the photo so they could ask for money. It's hard to know whether the tourism is good, as it helps to maintain their customs & way of living & gives a better lifestyle, or if its bad as the local customs etc are so obviously maintained just for the tourist dollar.All in all a very interesting experience.
We travelled onto La Paz after Lake Titicaca, crossing the border into Bolivia & stopping at Copacabana for lunch (no where near the same Copacabana as the one in the song!). After lunch we crossed a stretch of Lake
Titicaca on the local ferry, where the bus goes on what looks like a few rotting pieces of timber & we go on a small boat. The swell was pretty high & the boat (with its tiny engine) took ages to get across. The bus was even worse. We watched with some trepidation as it seemed to continue rocking and floating far far down the stretch rather than going to the other side. Very bizarre, but it made it in the end :)
Titicaca on the local ferry, where the bus goes on what looks like a few rotting pieces of timber & we go on a small boat. The swell was pretty high & the boat (with its tiny engine) took ages to get across. The bus was even worse. We watched with some trepidation as it seemed to continue rocking and floating far far down the stretch rather than going to the other side. Very bizarre, but it made it in the end :)Anyway, we're now in La Paz which is a gorgous colourful place, packed to the brim with people everywhere! (pic of La Paz from the hill on the left). We're planning to chill out for the day before we fly to Patagonia t
omorrow. Our group disbanded last night (pic from our last group dinner on right), so we're on our own for the next week before meeting up with the next group trip.
omorrow. Our group disbanded last night (pic from our last group dinner on right), so we're on our own for the next week before meeting up with the next group trip. Hope you are well & happy!
Lots of love
Richard & Corryn.
3 comments:
Hola to you two.
South America sounds fascinating, and I was amazed that the people at Lake Titicaca survive on tourist income. I am very interested in hearing about the glaciers in Patagonia. Keep me posted.
Dad
Hola Intrepid travellers - thoroughly enjoying your adventures. Can you feel my spirit travelling with you? Oh, it is!!
This altitude thing sounds quite scary. Hmmmm... Are you two over your colds?
I've been sharing your blog with family and friends - hope that's okay?
Happy, safe, and healthy trekking my friends.
Love and stuff, Yasmin
Hello! Just been catching up on your last month of adventures.
You must be in India by now???
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